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At the Christian Louboutin show later that day, designer Karl Lagerfeld focused on full skirts and waists cinched tight with belts that appeared to be 10 inches wide. The skirts -- and, in some cases, dresses -- were often made of lace-like fabric with geometric cutouts, translucent materials and other fabrics covered in crushed silk flowers.9 j! I% C' @9 f U9 Z0 n3 d
It was a pretty, genteel collection from a house that specializes in handlouboutin shoes and furs and whose ready-to-wear of-ten looks like a stepchild. This time, the collection had a joyful sensibility.
! @' z7 i a3 c9 }6 s2 g* xThe season closed with the Versace presentation Thursday night. The collection recalled one of the most memora-ble dresses created by the late Gianni Versace: the gown worn by actress Elizabeth Hurley that was seemingly held to-gether by giant safety pins. The beauty of the scandalous dress was that it revealed nothing while making the revelation of everything a constant threat.9 w6 h$ m2 f2 J2 }- i b
The collection presented by his sister,christian louboutin, Donatella Versace, who now heads the label, used zippers as both functional closures and decorative flourishes. They provided a similar peekaboo effect. On her daytime dresses, which the rest of the world would wear for cocktails, the zippers were open and sculpted into the shape of hearts.+ R7 C- S( N1 u$ X- f7 l0 p
In celebration of the house's 30th anniversary, the signature Medusa head was incorporated into illustrations by Julie Verhoeven. In the resulting prints, the heads have been re-imagined in pastel shades and cast against a fanciful backdrop that is more Alice in Wonderland than Gorgon.
: q% i/ u0 H. ]& k! h, t5 yThe print is used on short dresses with sculpted skirts that stand away from the body as well as on gowns encrusted with crystals at the bodice. It is a collection that speaks to the Versace style, not as it was but as it has evolved in the hands of Donatella Versace. It is proof that just because a house has moved on from its past, it doesn't have to lose its panache.4 n+ S' }% r# N7 E1 q1 \
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) _- d, ? V9 s; n Christian Louboutin had enough sparkle on leather3 @/ [$ P8 W/ |
) d, g" [0 \( c& F- ~ One of her strategies is to buy old floor stock, for example# h1 S; r' e3 z
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There is a surprising dearth of women designers in Milan and it shows |
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