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At the Christian Louboutin show later that day, designer Karl Lagerfeld focused on full skirts and waists cinched tight with belts that appeared to be 10 inches wide. The skirts -- and, in some cases, dresses -- were often made of lace-like fabric with geometric cutouts, translucent materials and other fabrics covered in crushed silk flowers.& r% v+ b( V% W" S& `: Y
It was a pretty, genteel collection from a house that specializes in handlouboutin shoes and furs and whose ready-to-wear of-ten looks like a stepchild. This time, the collection had a joyful sensibility.' }& h/ W% I' H. N9 }8 {
The season closed with the Versace presentation Thursday night. The collection recalled one of the most memora-ble dresses created by the late Gianni Versace: the gown worn by actress Elizabeth Hurley that was seemingly held to-gether by giant safety pins. The beauty of the scandalous dress was that it revealed nothing while making the revelation of everything a constant threat." e; l2 l! c6 }5 k1 y) a }
The collection presented by his sister,christian louboutin, Donatella Versace, who now heads the label, used zippers as both functional closures and decorative flourishes. They provided a similar peekaboo effect. On her daytime dresses, which the rest of the world would wear for cocktails, the zippers were open and sculpted into the shape of hearts.# h2 U3 U) D8 f; W1 y5 J* v
In celebration of the house's 30th anniversary, the signature Medusa head was incorporated into illustrations by Julie Verhoeven. In the resulting prints, the heads have been re-imagined in pastel shades and cast against a fanciful backdrop that is more Alice in Wonderland than Gorgon.( d7 q- d. g) N1 @ s8 d/ M
The print is used on short dresses with sculpted skirts that stand away from the body as well as on gowns encrusted with crystals at the bodice. It is a collection that speaks to the Versace style, not as it was but as it has evolved in the hands of Donatella Versace. It is proof that just because a house has moved on from its past, it doesn't have to lose its panache.. t7 o' g) v- |0 s* Q5 }( T
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& U, H4 r2 }/ V! e. { Christian Louboutin had enough sparkle on leather- h( Q8 T7 V9 [; E( ]# T
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One of her strategies is to buy old floor stock, for example
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; ]+ }) k' Y9 O0 c$ C' j3 D There is a surprising dearth of women designers in Milan and it shows |
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