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At the Christian Louboutin show later that day, designer Karl Lagerfeld focused on full skirts and waists cinched tight with belts that appeared to be 10 inches wide. The skirts -- and, in some cases, dresses -- were often made of lace-like fabric with geometric cutouts, translucent materials and other fabrics covered in crushed silk flowers. |; A/ X( ^9 H6 z
It was a pretty, genteel collection from a house that specializes in handlouboutin shoes and furs and whose ready-to-wear of-ten looks like a stepchild. This time, the collection had a joyful sensibility.
+ B" y5 |# L+ uThe season closed with the Versace presentation Thursday night. The collection recalled one of the most memora-ble dresses created by the late Gianni Versace: the gown worn by actress Elizabeth Hurley that was seemingly held to-gether by giant safety pins. The beauty of the scandalous dress was that it revealed nothing while making the revelation of everything a constant threat.9 m4 Q2 n. r0 z8 { A
The collection presented by his sister,christian louboutin, Donatella Versace, who now heads the label, used zippers as both functional closures and decorative flourishes. They provided a similar peekaboo effect. On her daytime dresses, which the rest of the world would wear for cocktails, the zippers were open and sculpted into the shape of hearts.3 o* y: [+ b0 K4 x6 p5 c) C
In celebration of the house's 30th anniversary, the signature Medusa head was incorporated into illustrations by Julie Verhoeven. In the resulting prints, the heads have been re-imagined in pastel shades and cast against a fanciful backdrop that is more Alice in Wonderland than Gorgon.
0 g* n( \- i7 [! Z. E u! l0 B" UThe print is used on short dresses with sculpted skirts that stand away from the body as well as on gowns encrusted with crystals at the bodice. It is a collection that speaks to the Versace style, not as it was but as it has evolved in the hands of Donatella Versace. It is proof that just because a house has moved on from its past, it doesn't have to lose its panache.* l1 t: e* P% ]* S% k
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0 m) K! w. c2 h3 |* o Christian Louboutin had enough sparkle on leather
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. X& M- H4 S) s" l; R1 a One of her strategies is to buy old floor stock, for example
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2 S- x( C& }1 E: @* R5 E There is a surprising dearth of women designers in Milan and it shows |
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